Resets or failure to boot with good voltages at the solenoid driver board.
Resets from a bad MPU J4 power connector
Cause: MPU J4 sits in the battery corrosion zone and develops resistance. Corrosion can also bridge the neighbouring 43 V and 5 V pins, even under the header's plastic, sending 43 V into the 5 V logic and destroying the board.
Checks
- MPU TP1 should be 4.9-5.25 V and not lower than SDB TP1/TP3.
- MPU TP2 should be 12-16 V, matching SDB TP5; MPU TP3 should be 43 V.
- MPU J4 pins: 16 and 17 +5 V, 12 for 12 V, 15 for 43 V, 18 and 19 ground.
Fix
- Replace the J4 header and housing pins and clean any corrosion, including under the header.
This check is done with the game on; keep fingers off the line-voltage wiring and the high-voltage display circuit.
Systems
Related tips
- MPU U9 voltages that show a working reset section
- MPU boots only some of the time
- Replacing the MPU reset section with a DS1811
- MPU LED locked on with no flicker: likely causes
- Testing the MPU reset circuit at U9 pin 40
- MPU stops before the seventh flash: check the 43 V at R113
- MPU stops after 7 flashes unless the top saucer coil is unplugged: bad driver chip
- No seventh MPU flash with a good solenoid fuse
Source: Repairing Bally Electronic Pinball Games from 1977 to 1985, Part Three, Clay Harrell (pinrepair.com)