The game powers up with general illumination only: no displays, and the MPU LED gives no flashes. A previous owner had hacked the wiring at J3 and TP4.
Only the GI lights and the MPU won't boot: bad connection at J3
Cause: A poor connection at J3 on the solenoid driver / voltage regulator board, the plug that brings in the unregulated supply and sends 5 V back out to the MPU. Wiggling J3 made the game boot.
Checks
- Check all the rectifier board test points first.
- With power on, gently wiggle J3 on the solenoid driver board and watch the MPU LED.
- With the board out, inspect the back of the J3 header for cracked solder joints and lifted traces.
Fix
- Undo any hacked wiring, resolder every J3 header pin, and repin or replace the J3 plug.
- Check J4 on the same board too, another plug that often gives trouble.
The rectifier and solenoid supplies are high enough to hurt (solenoid power is over 40 V DC and display power far higher); work with the game off and unplugged.
Systems
Games
Related tips
- Only GI lights and MPU LED never flashes: loose wiring at J3 on the solenoid driver board
- Pre-Xenon transformer to rectifier board wiring
- Early Bally SS rectifier board: worn ground mounting pad and cracked header pins
- Pre-Xenon rectifier board outputs by connector
- AS2518-18/-49 connector functions
- Replace browned rectifier header pins and housing pins together
- Burnt rectifier J3 pins 8 and 17
- Rectifier board J3 pin functions (pre-Xenon backbox transformer)
Source: Pinball Repair help group!! (Facebook group)