Rebuild a flipper, part 2: reassemble
Steps
- Fit a new plunger and link and a new metal spacer bushing, with the link bolt's locknut on the playfield side so the link can be removed later without taking off the pawl. Replace a worn red EOS actuator.
- Leave the coil off and refit the pawl: slide any cone-shaped return spring over the plunger (narrow end to the link) first, pass the plunger through the bracket, push the bat in from the top and lightly tighten the pawl bolt. Refit the return spring.
- Fit the coil with its lugs away from the coil stop, so the lugs take less shock; its notch locates in the bracket.
- Fit a new coil stop and spring washer; a mushroomed stop changes the plunger travel and can make the EOS actuator catch.
- Align the bat and tighten the pawl bolt, leaving about 1/16" of up-and-down play so the bat does not bind in the bushing. Check both flippers rest and rise to matching positions.
- Bend the EOS switch so it opens 1/16" to 1/8" with the flipper fully up.
Systems
Related tips
- Flipper rebuild part numbers (pre-Whitestar)
- Flipper parts and their numbers (one per flipper)
- Old-style flipper parts do not mix with the Apollo 13 and later style
- Flipper rebuild kit 500-6306-20 and what it leaves out
- Which Williams flipper parts fit Data East flippers
- Flipper board torn up after raising the playfield
- Flipper crank pinch screw won't budge during a rebuild: heat it to soften threadlocker
- Solid state flipper board versions
Source: Repairing DataEast 1987 (Laser War) to Sega 1995 (Batman Forever), Part Three, Clay Harrell (pinrepair.com)