Rebuilding an EM flipper

Steps

Work on one flipper at a time so the other is a reference. Raise the playfield.
Remove the coil stop (lower bracket) and slide the coil off the plunger.
Push the old sleeve out; if it won't come out, replace the coil (it comes with a sleeve).
If keeping the coil, check the three lugs: the centre lug has a thin and a thick wire, each outer lug one. About 4 ohms centre-to-thick and about 100 ohms centre-to-thin is normal (lift the game wires from the centre lug for an accurate reading).
On pre-1969 Gottlieb, unclip the plunger/link from the pawl pin; 1969 and later use a roll pin.
Loosen the pawl screws, unhook the return spring and remove the pawl; pull the bat and shaft out from above.
Remove the three bushing screws (note which holds the spring), fit a new nylon bushing standing about 1/8 inch proud, and refit the screws and spring anchor.
Refit the shaft and pawl, tightening the pawl screws only lightly; optionally bend the rest stop for more travel.
Rehook the return spring with only enough tension to return the bat.
Fit the new plunger/link with its spring clip or an E-clip, hold the coil against the upper bracket and refit the coil stop.
Do the other flipper, lower the playfield, align both bats for matching rest and up positions, then raise it and tighten the pawl screws; recheck.
Finally file or replace the EOS switch and set it to open about 1/8 inch at full stroke; check the fish paper on the blade touching the pawl, and file the cabinet switch.

Source: Repairing Electro-Mechanical (EM) Coin Operated Games to 1978, Part Two, Clay Harrell (pinrepair.com)