Diagnostics show the flipper button working, but the flipper stays down.

Flipper button registers but the flipper does not move

Cause: No 50 V at the coil (coin door open on 1993 and later games, blown fuse, broken wire) or a bad coil.

Checks

• Black lead on the side rail, red on each outer coil lug: expect 50-80 V DC.
• In attract mode, briefly ground the middle lug to the side rail with a clip lead; the coil should pull in.
• Game off: common lug to middle lug about 4 ohms. Across the two outer lugs about 125 ohms on Fliptronics; on older games a little over 4 ohms at rest, about 125 ohms with the flipper pushed to full stroke.

Fix

• Close the coin door, replace the fuse or repair the wire, or replace the coil.

Coil circuits carry about 50 V DC; touching the clip to the wrong lug shorts the supply and can blow a fuse.

Systems

• WPC Alpha-Numeric
• WPC Dot Matrix
• WPC Fliptronics
• WPC DCS
• WPC-Security (WPC-S)
• WPC-95

Related tips

• Fliptronic flipper dead though the button reads
• Fliptronic flipper dead: check the button first
• Pre-Fliptronics: a flipper does nothing
• Pre-Fliptronics: flipper lane change does not work
• Upper flipper button wired but not used on some games
• Checking flipper buttons and EOS switches in switch test
• Flipper buttons not seen by the game (pre-Fliptronics)
• Flipper stays up briefly after the button is released

Source: Repairing Williams/Bally WPC Pinball Games from 1990 to 1999, Part Two, Clay Harrell (pinrepair.com)