Diagnosing a Fliptronics II board

Steps

• Game on: all three coil lugs should have about 70 V DC. If one or two lugs are dead, pull and meter the Fliptronics fuses; good fuses then mean a bad coil.
• Swap the left and right cabinet opto boards; a fault that changes sides is an opto board.
• Reseat all the ribbon cables.
• Coin door closed: ground each Fliptronics TIP102 tab briefly with a clip lead (never a TIP36). Q12 is lower right power, Q11 lower right hold, Q10 lower left power, Q9 lower left hold; on a two-flipper game four TIP102s do nothing. This checks wiring, coil and fuses, not the transistors.
• Check the resistors: 220 ohm above each TIP36; blue 2.6k next to each TIP102 (reads about 2.1k in circuit; if lower, lift a leg and retest); 56 ohm below each TIP102; 1k and 470 ohm by each 2N4403.
• Check the 1N4004 by each 2N4403: black lead on the band, 0.4-0.6.
• Test all 2N4403, TIP102 and TIP36 transistors; a pass is right only about 90% of the time, so replace doubtful ones.
• Power side dead or flipper always on: replace the TIP36, TIP102, 2N4403 and 1N4004 for that flipper. Hold side dead or always on: replace the TIP102, 2N4403 and 1N4004.

Systems

• WPC Fliptronics
• WPC DCS
• WPC-Security (WPC-S)

Related tips

• Fliptronics I appears only in The Addams Family
• Fliptronics and WPC-95: weak flipper
• Two LM339s on the Fliptronics board read the flipper optos
• Fliptronics: flipper will not hold up (flutters)
• Fliptronics: flipper burns and smells, often stuck up
• Fliptronics: flipper coil gets hot after a while of play
• Fliptronics flipper coil wired wrongly
• Weak or dead flippers from failing LM339s on the Fliptronics board

Source: Repairing Williams/Bally WPC Pinball Games from 1990 to 1999, Part Two, Clay Harrell (pinrepair.com)