Rectifier board TP3 reads no +12 V DC, or F3 blows as soon as the game is switched on.
No 12 V at rectifier TP3 even with a good F3
Cause: Missing 12 V AC from the transformer, or a failed bridge rectifier BR2.
Checks
- Measure AC volts between test points E11 and E12 on the rectifier board; expect about 12 V AC.
- No AC: check the transformer wiring and the transformer.
- AC present but no DC at TP3: BR2 is open.
- F3 blows instantly at power-on: BR2 is shorted.
Fix
- Replace bridge BR2, or repair the transformer feed.
Measure with care: the rectifier board has mains and high-voltage circuits nearby.
Systems
Related tips
- Rectifier board test points
- Route of the +12 V supply to the MPU and 5 V regulator
- No +12 V at rectifier board TP3
- Rectifier board J1 (to playfield) pins
- Rectifier board J2 (to cabinet) pins
- Rectifier board J3 (to backbox boards) pins
- Finding the coil that blows F4 (and stops the last flash)
- Rectifier board fuse ratings (all Bally 1977-1985)
Source: Repairing Bally Electronic Pinball Games from 1977 to 1985, Part Two, Clay Harrell (pinrepair.com)