No solenoid fires, including the flippers.

No coils work at all

Cause: Blown fuse F4 or a worn fuse holder, an open or shorted solenoid bridge BR3 on the rectifier board, or a missing +5 V on the solenoid driver board.

Checks

• Measure rectifier board TP5 (top right test point): it should be 43 V DC.
• If TP5 is low, pull F4 and check it on ohms out of the holder; also look at the holder clips for heat damage or weak tension.
• Good F4 but no 43 V at TP5: bridge BR3 is probably open. F4 that blows instantly on a new fuse: BR3 is probably shorted.
• With 43 V at TP5, check rectifier J1 pin 6 (brown wire to the flipper coils) for 43 V DC.
• Check solenoid driver board TP3 for 5 V DC; with no 5 V there, inspect the wire link joining SDB J3 pin 13 to pin 25 for a break.

Fix

• Replace F4 and any heat-damaged fuse holder, or replace BR3 as the tests indicate.
• Repair the J3 pin 13 to pin 25 jumper if TP3 is dead.

This check is done with the game on; keep fingers off the line-voltage wiring and the high-voltage display circuit.

Systems

• Bally MPU AS-2518-17
• Bally MPU AS-2518-35

Related tips

• No playfield coils work
• Test the coils behind the solenoid expander
• Solenoid expander relay buzzes or does not switch
• Wrong coil fires or a coil never fires
• Flippers and some coils work, others are dead
• How Bally coils are switched
• Baby Pac-Man solenoid board select lines
• All playfield solenoids dead: quick order of checks

Source: Repairing Bally Electronic Pinball Games from 1977 to 1985, Part Three, Clay Harrell (pinrepair.com)