In lamp test the SEB relay buzzes or stays put, and coils on the expander fire wrongly.
Solenoid expander relay buzzes or does not switch
Cause: Cracked .156" header joints, a dead bulb beside the SEB, a failed lamp driver SCR, low 6.5 V from BR1, an open R2 (25 ohm, 5 W) or burned pins on the rectifier board, missing or reversed diodes, pitted relay contacts, or a bad MOC3011 (page 37).
Checks
- Reflow the SEB header pins and replace the bulb next to the board.
- Test the lamp driver SCR that drives the SEB.
- Check the lamp supply voltage, R2 on the rectifier board and its connector pins.
- Each coil on the SEB has two diodes, one across the lugs and one in series with the power wire; check both are present and the right way round, plus the relay's own diode.
- Inspect the relay contacts; file or replace the relay.
Fix
- Replace the failed part; the MOC3011 can be replaced with an NTE3047.
Systems
Related tips
- The bulb next to the solenoid expander board must work
- How the solenoid expander board doubles up coils
- No coils work at all
- Drop target falls instead of the ball being kicked out (SEB games)
- Drop target coils misfire after LEDs or a new lamp driver: expander boards need bulbs
- No playfield coils work
- Replacing the hard-to-find 48 V expander relay
- Expander-driven coils fire in pairs: drop target coil fitted without its second diode
Source: Repairing Bally Electronic Pinball Games from 1977 to 1985, Part Three, Clay Harrell (pinrepair.com)