The 43 V solenoid fuse blew during play and everything but the GI went dead. New fuses blow at once.
Solenoid fuse blows even with the outputs unplugged: fault on the rectifier board
Cause: A fault on the rectifier board itself, not in the playfield wiring.
Checks
- Measure from the fuse holder to ground with power off: a few hundred ohms means no dead short in the wiring.
- Unplug the board's output connector (and the solenoid feed pin) and fit a new fuse. If it still blows, the fault is on the board.
Fix
- Repair or replace the rectifier board (bridge rectifiers are the usual suspects), and resolder the transformer wires to it properly.
The rectifier board carries transformer AC and 43 V DC; work with the game unplugged.
Systems
Games
Related tips
- Random reboots during play: reflow the rectifier board
- Fuses blow with a brand new rectifier board: cold joint on BR1
- Backbox GI out and fuse F6 blowing: burnt rectifier J3 plug and a shorted bridge
- Rectifier test point ranges with fuse and rectifier
- Where the 43 V solenoid supply leaves the rectifier board
- After a while all solenoids except flippers drop out until power cycle: rectifier board
- No +5V on any board and no MPU LED: bad return pin in the solenoid driver board J3 plug
- No +12 V at rectifier board TP3
Source: Pinball Repair help group!! (Facebook group)