With a new aftermarket rectifier board, fuse F1 and then the inline fuse blow as soon as the board's J3 is plugged into the solenoid driver board, with either driver board. TP1 read almost zero ohms to ground.
Fuses blow with a brand new rectifier board: cold joint on BR1
Cause: A cold solder joint at bridge rectifier BR1 on the new board.
Checks
- With everything unplugged, measure TP1 to ground; it should read about the value of the bleeder resistor (around 25 ohms), not near zero.
- Inspect every joint on the new board, especially the bridge rectifiers.
Fix
- Reflow all the joints on the rectifier board.
The rectifier board is fed straight from the transformer; unplug the game before working on it.
Systems
Games
Related tips
- The three Bally rectifier boards
- No +5V on any board and no MPU LED: bad return pin in the solenoid driver board J3 plug
- Solenoid board 5 V collapses under load: open 12 V bridge on the rectifier board
- Solenoid fuse blows even with the outputs unplugged: fault on the rectifier board
- Backbox GI out and fuse F6 blowing: burnt rectifier J3 plug and a shorted bridge
- Controlled lamps dim and TP1 reads about 2.8 V instead of 5.4 V: half the bridge open
- Rectifier test point ranges with fuse and rectifier
- Where the 43 V solenoid supply leaves the rectifier board
Source: Pinball Repair help group!! (Facebook group)