Reassemble and set up the 80/80A power supply
Steps
- Make sure Q3's plastic leg insulator and mica pad are both in place.
- Screw the plate back on and solder Q3's legs.
- Check there is no continuity between Q3's case and the plate; if there is, recheck the insulators.
- Replace the orange logic filter capacitor in the cabinet.
- Refit the board, plug in only J1, switch on and confirm both LEDs and the +60, +42, +8 and +5 V points.
- Reconnect everything, switch on and set +5 V to 5.1 V with the trim pot.
The System 80/80A power supply makes about 60 V and 42 V DC for the displays; keep fingers off the board and connectors with the game on.
Systems
Related tips
- Bench-test an 80/80A power supply in the game, part 1
- Bench-test an 80/80A power supply in the game, part 2
- Parts for the 80/80A power supply rebuild
- Mandatory 80/80A power supply rebuild
- Test and remove the 80/80A power supply's big transistor
- Original 80/80A power supply design overheats CR7
- 80/80A power supply has 12 V but no +5 V
- Which System 80 power supply boards are interchangeable
Source: Repairing & Upgrading Gottlieb System 80 Pinballs from 1980 to 1989, Part One, Clay Harrell (pinrepair.com)