Bench-test an 80/80A power supply in the game, part 1
Steps
- Check every bottom-panel fuse for correct rating and type.
- Unplug every connector from every backbox board, then plug in only power supply J1 and switch on.
- LEDs DS1 (unregulated 12 V in) and DS2 (+5 V out) should both light.
- Measure against TP3 (ground): TP4 +5 V, TP5 8 V, TP1 60 V, TP2 42 V.
- Readings somewhat high are fine (about 48 V at the 42 V point, 65 V at the 60 V point, 8.6 V at the 8 V point), but +5 V must sit between 4.8 and 5.2 V; the trim pot sets it.
The System 80/80A power supply makes about 60 V and 42 V DC for the displays; keep fingers off the board and connectors with the game on.
Systems
Related tips
- Parts for the 80/80A power supply rebuild
- Reassemble and set up the 80/80A power supply
- Mandatory 80/80A power supply rebuild
- Recommended extras for the 80/80A power supply
- Test and remove the 80/80A power supply's big transistor
- Original 80/80A power supply design overheats CR7
- 80/80A power supply has 12 V but no +5 V
- Which System 80 power supply boards are interchangeable
Source: Repairing & Upgrading Gottlieb System 80 Pinballs from 1980 to 1989, Part One, Clay Harrell (pinrepair.com)