Live voltage checks for the F114/F115 message
Steps
- Game on, coin door closed.
- Measure AC at J101 pins 4 and 7 (J129 on WPC-95): 13 to 18 V AC. Nothing means check the transformer connectors.
- Measure DC at TP8 (TP102) to ground: 16 to 18 V. Nothing means replace BR1 (D11-D14) and check for cracked solder pads around it.
- Measure TP3 (TP100): 12 V. Nothing means check D1/D2, then replace Q2 (LM7812) and check C2 (C40) and traces.
- If the supply is good, replace CPU U20, then U14 (U23 on WPC-95).
- If BR1 (D11-D14) runs very hot, test the TIP107 lamp column drivers, then driver board U19 ULN2803 (U11 on WPC-95) and U18 74LS374 (U10 on WPC-95).
Systems
Related tips
- 'Check F114 and F115' with switch 24 open: missing 12 V, bad bridge BR5
- Voltages made by the WPC power driver board
- Row 1 short error and F114 blows at once: fault in the 18 V lamp supply
- Using LED2 and LED3 to set the transformer tap
- 12 V unregulated LED out on the driver board: open track to C8
- 12 V and 50 V supplies read far too high: transformer line-voltage jumpers set wrong
- Won't start after a power surge, 5 V reads very low: failed C4 on the power driver board
- Check fuses F106/F101 with no lamps and no game start: shorted bridge diode
Source: Repairing Williams/Bally WPC Pinball Games from 1990 to 1999, Part One, Clay Harrell (pinrepair.com)