After board work, the game starts and switches score, but no solenoid works: no ball eject, flippers or pop bumpers. All fuses test good.
No coils work at all though fuses are good and game starts: 43 V not reaching playfield
Cause: The roughly 43 V solenoid supply was not reaching the playfield coils. Members note that a loose jumper plug or cracked solder on its pins at the solenoid driver board kills every coil at once.
Checks
- Measure for solenoid voltage at a coil lug with the game on.
- Ground a driver transistor tab briefly: if nothing fires, the high-voltage supply is missing; if coils fire but not in play, look at the 5 V feed to the driver logic instead.
- Check the jumper plug on the solenoid driver board and reflow its header pins, plus the fuse under the playfield.
Fix
- Restore the 43 V path (here the poster fitted a jumper to bridge the break), and reflow or repin the connector that failed.
The solenoid supply is around 43 V DC; keep clear of live coil lugs and switch off before resoldering.
Systems
Games
Related tips
- After a while all solenoids except flippers drop out until power cycle: rectifier board
- No +5V on any board and no MPU LED: bad return pin in the solenoid driver board J3 plug
- Solenoid fuse blows even with the outputs unplugged: fault on the rectifier board
- Fuses blow with a brand new rectifier board: cold joint on BR1
- Rectifier test point ranges with fuse and rectifier
- Where the 43 V solenoid supply leaves the rectifier board
- Solenoid driver TP5 under 13 V
- Backbox GI out and fuse F6 blowing: burnt rectifier J3 plug and a shorted bridge
Source: Pinball Repair help group!! (Facebook group)