A flipper, pop bumper, eject hole, slingshot or drop target bank stops working, or a fuse blows.
Finding a burned solenoid coil
Cause: A solenoid coil burned out, almost always because it was held on: a stuck or bent activating switch, broken linkage jamming a switch, or a held flipper without EOS protection.
Checks
- Look at each coil wrapper under the playfield; dark brown or black paper indicates overheating.
- Try moving the plunger by hand; if it will not move, the coil has likely burned.
- Inspect the switch that fires it and the attached mechanism for a stuck switch or broken part.
Fix
- Fix the cause, then replace the coil with the correct part number from the manual or schematic (the burned coil may itself be a wrong earlier replacement).
Systems
- Williams System 3
- Williams System 4
- Williams System 6 / 6A
- Williams System 7
- Williams System 9
- Williams System 11
- Williams System 11A
- Williams System 11B
- Williams System 11C
- WPC Alpha-Numeric
- WPC Dot Matrix
- WPC Fliptronics
- WPC DCS
- WPC-Security (WPC-S)
- WPC-95
- Bally MPU AS-2518-17
- Bally MPU AS-2518-35
- Stern MPU-100
- Stern MPU-200
- Bally 6803
- Gottlieb System 1
- Gottlieb System 80
- Gottlieb System 80A
- Gottlieb System 80B
- Gottlieb System 3
- Data East CPU Version 1/2
- Data East CPU Version 3
- Data East/Sega CPU Version 3b
- Capcom
- Electro-mechanical
Related tips
- Replacing a solenoid coil
- Checking a coil against its chart resistance
- Fuse blows, pops and slings dead: slingshot switch stuck shut cooked coil and Q11
- Pop bumper or slingshot locked on
- A coil hums continuously
- Top pop bumper dead, new coil blows the 1 A playfield fuse at power-up: bad driver
- Pop bumper or slingshot machine-guns on pre-Back to the Future games
Source: Pinball Machine Care & Maintenance, Bernard B. Kamoroff (Bell Springs Pinball Alley)